Learning from Ladakh

Regretfully, we have made the decision not to run the Learning From Ladakh Program in the summer of 2012. For too many years we have been struggling with insufficient staff and inadequate funding. To properly run the LFL program, as well as our other activities in Ladakh, we need to have both a Western as well as a Ladakhi full time staff person.  For the coming year, we have decided to focus on fundraising, and hope to be able to restart the program once we have sufficient staff. Please consider supporting our work. Donations can be made through Network for Good. 

This experiential education program includes a four-week stay with a Ladakhi farming family and five days of group workshops: two at the beginning of the session, one in the middle, and two at the end. Applications are welcome from people of all ages and nationalities.

Participants have the rare opportunity to immerse themselves in the ancient culture of Ladakh, while gaining a deep understanding of the changes wrought by globalization. The workshops put the participants' experience in Ladakh into an international context and help them to see the overall economic, environmental and psychological costs of the global economy. Participants also learn about the positive effects of strengthening local culture, community and knowledge and about inspiring initiatives both in Ladakh and around the world. Finally, the workshops give participants the tools to engage in effective activism when they return home.

Background: Land and Culture

Ladakh, or "Little Tibet", is a wildly beautiful desert region high in the Western Himalayas. Villages are composed of anything from a few houses to more than one hundred, set in emerald oases in a rugged, mountainous desert, at altitudes ranging from 10,000 to 14,000 feet (from 3,000 to 4,300 m). Ladakh is a place of few resources and has an extreme climate, yet it was home to a thriving culture for more than a thousand years. Traditions of frugality and co-operation, coupled with an intimate knowledge of the local environment, enabled the Ladakhis not only to survive, but also to prosper. The local economy and culture served people so well, in fact, that hunger, crime, pollution and ethnic conflict were traditionally all but unknown.

Traditional agriculture in Ladakh was based on human labour, animal power and hand-made tools. Fields were irrigated with glacial meltwater and fertilised with human "night soil". Families also tended small vegetable gardens and sometimes apple or apricot orchards, and kept a few animals, such as, goats, sheep, mules and dzo (a cross between a yak and a local breed of cow). The technologies were simple, yet in the four months between the spring and autumn frosts, the Ladakhis produced more than enough food for the entire year. In most years, there was even a sizeable surplus of grain that could be traded for salt, tea or jewelry, and made into gallons of chang, the local beer.

Ladakh was no utopia, but by almost any measure its traditional culture was extremely successful. It was ecologically sustainable, and just as important, people were supported by strong family and community bonds that provided a deep sense of psychological security.

Background: Modern Changes

For the last three decades, Ladakh has been increasingly exposed to modern influences brought on largely by tourism and economic "development". The results have been mixed at best. In the capital, Leh, a range of consumer goods is now available in most households have a television and most men and children wear Western clothes. For many Ladakhis, life is becoming less physically demanding. However, modernization is undermining the very foundations of the traditional culture and giving rise to a familiar pattern of devastating environmental and social problems.

Ladakhi agriculture has been hit particularly hard. Subsidized food trucked into Ladakh over the Himalayas is often cheaper in the bazaar than food grown five minutes walk away. Local agriculture now seems "uneconomic", and many Ladakhis are abandoning their farms in pursuit of paid jobs in Leh or outside Ladakh. Children who once learned from relatives and neighbours how to grow barley at 14,000 feet (4,300 m), and how to build a house, to tend animals and recognise useful plants and herbs, are instead sent to Western-style schools where the curriculum ignores Ladakh's culture and local resources. Trained only as urban consumers and producers most are left "educated" but unemployed.

Villagers are now flocking to Leh in search of the few scarce jobs available, leading to a population explosion in the city. Soulless concrete "housing colonies" sprawl further and further into the desert, while the thin air is being choked by diesel fumes from the trucks and buses that now pour into the capital every day. Rubbish of all sorts piles up in the streets and on open dumps; in many places, once-pure water supplies are unfit to drink. In the "modern" economy being created by global economic forces, women are increasingly marginalized. Traditionally women in Ladakh enjoyed remarkablly high position, being at the centre of every household and involved in all decisions. The few paid-jobs available now are generally filled by men, while the women are left behind to do the agricultural work that was once shared by both. Even as their workload has doubled, women's status has fallen: the traditional Ladakhi farmer, once the backbone of the economy, is increasingly considered backward and irrelevant, an impediment to progress.

Faced with often overwhelming psychological and emotional pressures to conform to an urban consumer society, many Ladakhis have become insecure and confused about their own identities. They feel inferior about their physical appearance, clothing, lifestyle and lack of "education" and money. They now routinely compare themselves with a glamorized media version of the Western, urban consumer. As a result, people who were once proud to be Ladakhi now think of themselves as impoverished, primitive and inferior.

However, very encouragingly, over the last five years or so, there is a counter trend emerging as more and more Ladakhis are beginning to regain cultural esteem. The semi autonomous regional government is now also promoting organic agriculture and renewable energy. ISEC's work over the past three decades has contributed to these trends and the 'Learning from Ladakh' program forms an important part of these initiatives. 

Arrival and Orientation

Participants are expected to attend the orientation that begins each month's stay. They should plan to arrive in Ladakh at least two or three days before in order to allow time to rest and adjust to the altitude. Also, they should be aware that travel to Ladakh, and in India in general, can be fraught with delays (especially in the busy summer season when flights are extremely full and sometimes cancelled). Therefore, in addition to acclimatization time, it is a good idea to allow several extra days (on either end of the stay) for the unexpected. This means that including travel and acclimatization time, participants should plan for a minimum of five weeks in total. Placements in the families will occur in the two days following the orientation.

The Family Stay

Participants are placed with suitable families in villages throughout the region. They are expected to participate in most family activities, including carrying out daily tasks. Depending upon when they participate, and what altitude the village is situated at, the work can take up anywhere between 10 to 40 hours each week. The work ranges from helping with agricultural tasks - tending animals, weeding, irrigation, harvesting crops - to lending a hand in maintaining the household - for example, cooking, cleaning, and fetching water. The general trend is that there is not much farm or fieldwork to do in July and early August, when the only crops that may be ready for harvest are garden vegetables (with the important exception of villages in lower/Western Ladakh, which harvest grains in July and are occasionally selected to host participants). Mid August is when the alfalfa harvest, and barley harvest in some villages, or picking apricots, begins in earnest. The pace of work (except at peak harvest time), whether in the fields or in the household, is usually very leisurely with frequent breaks throughout the day. No farming experience is necessary, although you should be flexible, willing to learn and in good health. You don't have to be particularly strong, but you need to have stamina: at 12,000 feet (3,700 m) or more, under the intense Ladakhi sunshine, even routine tasks can seem strenuous.

To get a sense of what it is like to participate in the Learning from Ladakh programme, please see:

A short film by Nicole Barrasse, 2009 LFL participant

On Top of the World by Mairéad Ní Chaoimh, 2008 LFL participant

'Learning Along the Way', a blog by a 2010 participant

Choosing your starting date

As described above, the amount of work available varies enormously throughout the growing season. If participants wish to have the time to experience a broad range of Ladakhi culture (for instance, visiting the village monastery, hiking up to the high pastures) then July is the better option. The disadvantage is that the main jobs available are weeding the garden and household chores. For most families the harvest starts in mid-August, continuing into September, so if participants want to work hard in the fields, you should come for August (though bear in mind the above qualifier about lower/Western Ladakh). 

Please note that much of the workload may depend on the participant's initiative to work. Some families are still reluctant to ask participants to work, while with other families they may be asked to work very frequently - maybe so much that they'll need to ask for a rest! Don't worry, however, as points such as these will be addressed by the ISEC staff during the orientation sessions.

'Learning from Ladakh' Project Workshops

The family-stay is interspersed with three group workshops, which provide a forum for participants to:

• Learn more about the global economic forces which are affecting Ladakh and other indigenous cultures, and explore how these same forces are affecting participants' lives and communities back home;
• Discuss the various local alternatives to economic globalization, as well as the ways in which participants can work in their own communities to implement and strengthen such alternatives;
• Share their experiences and the challenges they face while in Ladakh. This has proved extremely valuable for past participants, giving them the information they need to put their experiences in perspective.
• Learn basics of Ladakhi language and have cultural and linguistic introduction by local ISEC staff.

Whereas the family-stay experience is individualized, the workshops are focused on group interaction. This involves discussion, sharing experiences and some practical group exercises. These activities are designed to help participants integrate their own personal experience in Ladakh with the wider political, economic, ecological and cultural issues surrounding it.

Through the program, ISEC works to provide a holistic educational experience. We see practical, intellectual, nature-based and emotional learning as equally important components of a complete and enriching educational experience. The family-stay itself provides the experiential and nature-based aspects, while the workshops are designed to complement and deepen this, both intellectually and personally. To help establish a common starting point for these workshops, you are expected to have read Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh, by Helena Norberg-Hodge (available at half price from ISEC), before arriving in Ladakh. It is a good idea to do so before even deciding to participate in the programme, as the book can give a much better idea about what to expect. We also hold meetings with members of the Women's Alliance of Ladakh (WAL) throughout the summer. These meetings offer the opportunity for program participants and Ladakhi women to share their perspectives about development and change in Ladakh.

We end every program month with a dinner and party. This is a chance for participants to spend time together, share music, poetry or song, and just generally have a good time! ISEC aims to foster a close relationship between participants and encourages interaction and sharing, not only during workshops but also through cooking together, playing music and spending time in nature. We urge participants to bring musical instruments or songs with you when you come. And don't worry if you're an amateur — the more inclusive and participatory it is likely to be.

Preparing for the Project

Participating in 'Learning from Ladakh' is a rich and rewarding experience, but it is not always easy. Part of the challenge will be attempting to communicate across cultural and linguistic divides that can be quite wide! In some cases, there will be English speakers in the household, while in other cases, only Ladakhi will be spoken. Some participants have reported feeling isolated and lonely, although there will always be other participants in your village. In any case, Ladakhis are renowned for their good humour, easy-going nature and understanding.

Each participant will have a different experience of this project. We encourage participants to try to shed any idealised expectations about the how it will be and keep in mind that this is a threatened and changing culture, not an idyllic and untouched area. Participants will be faced with some difficult realities, such as pervasive commercialism and young people's disinterest in, and even disdain for, agriculture and their own traditions. Without sounding discouraging, we want to stress that there is no way that we can fully prepare participants for the program - in the end, the most important thing they can bring is an open heart, an open mind, an attitude of acceptance and a willingness to adapt to the Ladakhi way of life.

Health

While in Ladakh, you are NOT the responsibility of ISEC. It is up to participants to organize health and travel insurance and to check with their doctors regarding any necessary immunizations. However, although we cannot claim responsibility, this does not mean that participants are alone if they have problems. There are both traditional and western forms of health care and a hospital in Leh, as well as a clinic that analyses stool samples. ISEC staff will help find what participants need, and will provide support if you they feeling unwell. We definitely recommend that participants speak to their physicians about any health concerns prior to joining the program.

Some people have difficulty adjusting to the altitude in Ladakh, and even need to return to lower elevations. This generally has nothing to do with age or previous health problems, but more to do with not resting and hydrating enough on arrival. Again, participants should give themselves AT LEAST two to three days to acclimatise in Ladakh, prior to starting the project. Intestinal problems are also common, and can be persistent, though they are usually not serious. If applicants have any physical disabilities or limitations, it is very important that they make us aware of them when you apply, so that we can speak to them personally about how this may affect their involvement in the Project. We do not discriminate against applicants who have physical limitations, but it is important for them to be fully aware of possible hardships before making their decision. For example, if someone has bad asthma or is very overweight or unfit, this may be a serious problem when doing manual labour at a high altitude.

Political instability

Ladakh neighbours Kashmir, which is a politically volatile region. While actual danger is minimal, ISEC cannot make any guarantees, and it is the participant's responsibility to inform him or herself about the area and make travel decisions accordingly. Although the situation has improved recently, we urge participants not to travel to Ladakh via Kashmir. It may be wise to inform concerned friends and family that the Western media tends only to pick up the 'bad news' about Jammu and Kashmir (the state where Ladakh is located), thereby giving the impression of constant war and hardship. The media also does not distinguish between the different parts of the region, which are separated from each other by tall mountain ranges. The effect of skirmishes on the border are rarely felt in central Ladakh (where all the family-stay villages are located). However, because of problems in the region, you should expect to see a sizeable Indian army presence in Ladakh (particularly around Leh).

Costs and practicalities

Firstly, project participants are responsible for their own travel expenses and arrangements, both to and from Ladakh and for accommodation and food while in Leh. This includes days to acclimatise before the start of the project, and the five workshop days spent in Leh—two at the beginning of the month, one in the middle and two at the end. A valid passport and an Indian visa are both required.

The fee for the year 2010 Learning From Ladakh Program is £350/US$600. The income from participant fees covers approximately one half of the running costs of the Learning from Ladakh Program and ISEC subsidizes the rest through fundraising. Host families are paid a daily rate to cover the costs of having a participant stay with them.

Returning home

We hope that participants will not simply view their stay as an interesting vacation or a unique intercultural experience, but will use their new-found knowledge and understanding to inform their own lives. There are many ways to get involved in your own community, whether one wants to try to change government policy, work at the grassroots in one's own community, or start a career in "development" overseas. Whatever the form of activism, we feel that a deeper understanding of the forces that underlie the spread of the global economy, and the knowledge of its impact worldwide, is absolutely essential.

Once the project is over, we encourage participants to stay in touch with each other and with ISEC. The growing network of Learning from Ladakh participants can be a wonderful resource for those people who wish to take positive, action in their own communities back home.

To Apply

The number of participants that can enter the program each month is limited, and because there is a great deal of interest in the project, we are selective. To be certain you will have a spot in your desired month, please send in your completed application form as soon as possible, as they are reviewed on first come, first serve basis. To request a Learning From Ladakh application, please contact This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .